🇮🇸 Ring RoadInteractive itinerary
Scroll the story — the map follows, zooming into each day.
Highlands & Landmannalaugar
Head straight into the Highlands: chase Hjálparfoss and Háifoss (Iceland's fourth-tallest waterfall) on gravel road 332, then hike the short 6 km loop at Landmannalaugar through lava fields and rainbow mountains. The F208/F26 has a river crossing — first gear, slow and steady, follow the red marker flags.
Seven adults squeezed into two cars like sardines. First 'foss' of many. Mama was nervous at the river crossing but we made it. Dinner at Valhalla, a Viking burger joint with axe throwing.
Sólheimajökull glacier
A guided glacier day on Sólheimajökull — book a longer private tour (ours ran 6 hours) for real ice-climbing and crevasse descents. Finish along the south coast: Skógafoss, the Reynisfjara viewpoint and the black-sand beach. Respect the sneaker waves at Reynisfjara.
One of the days that won't leave my mind for years. Valerio, an Italian guide, taught us ice climbing — the axes become your new hands. Up to 16 m of ice melts here every year; global warming is painfully visible.
Glacier lagoons & Diamond Beach
Chase the ice lagoons: quieter Fjallsárlón first, then the famous Jökulsárlón, connected to the sea and feeding Diamond Beach where icebergs strand on black sand. Even in August 'popular' rarely means crowded in Iceland.
Icebergs dancing with the waves on the black sand. In Iceland popular is never a synonym for crowded — we never felt suffocated by other tourists.
Puffins, Stuðlagil & Dettifoss
Northeast day: catch puffins early morning or late evening at their marina, marvel at the basalt columns of Stuðlagil Canyon (brown after rain, still spectacular) and stand before Dettifoss, Europe's most powerful waterfall, in a lunar lava setting. Pack warm — nights drop near 0°C.
Puffins are like flying penguins: monogamous, they recognise each other by rubbing beaks. Freezing at night, near 0°C.
Mývatn geothermal area
Explore the geothermal Mývatn area — the Hverir mud pots and fumaroles, Krafla and Leirhnjúkur — then Goðafoss and Akureyri, Iceland's fifth-largest town. A free roadside hot spring is a smart, wallet-friendly alternative to the Blue Lagoon. Bring midge repellent: Mývatn means 'midges'.
So many midges we understood the name. A random free hot spring felt genius after seeing Blue Lagoon prices.
Kjölur F35 & Hveravellir
Cross the interior on the F35 between two glaciers, stopping at Hveravellir's geothermal oasis and the best natural hot pool of the trip. Carry a spare tyre and a repair kit: this is remote gravel, dozens of km from paved roads. Off-road rule: stay under 40 km/h and avoid big rocks.
A great challenge for our nerves. I hit a rock, flat tyre, no spare, 70 km from tarmac. Patched it with glue and luck, re-inflating every 30 minutes. 3.5 hours later, kind JB Auto Repair fixed it perfectly.
Golden Circle & Reykjanes
Close the loop on the Golden Circle — the Great Geysir, Þingvellir National Park and Gullfoss — then, near Keflavík, the still-active Geldingadalir volcano with its 2021–2022 lava fields. Note: the Reykjanes car parks (P1–P3) require an online fee.
Our last waterfall left a bittersweet taste. One of the few places in Europe to see such recent volcanic activity. Then a late-night flight home from Keflavík. We hope this long, boring article helps you NOT organise your next Iceland trip. Have fun!
Iceland in 7!
Read the full story