🇮🇹 SiciliaInteractive itinerary
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Catania
Landing in Catania. A taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 40€: if you're traveling light, consider the Alibus bus, which is much cheaper. First night in a city center hotel, an excellent base for exploring the city on foot.
Arrival in Catania, taxi 40€ but hotel very nice.
Catania → Ortigia
Morning spent between Piazza del Duomo (with the elephant, symbol of Catania), the fish market, and the Giardini Bellini with a view of snow-capped Etna. In the afternoon, pick up the rental car and transfer to Ortigia, the baroque islet in front of Siracusa: park outside the historic center and continue on foot.
The best cannolo of all, the little elephant, the fish market a bit deserted and the Bellini Gardens with snow-capped Etna. Picked up the 'eggplant' (our Aygo X), off to Ortigia. Daniele's horse meat sandwich was so good we went back for dinner.
Ortigia · Siracusa · Noto · Modica · Scicli
The heart of Iblean Baroque in one day: the Aretusa Spring and the alleys of Ortigia, Caravaggio's Santa Lucia in Siracusa, the scenic Noto, Modica of chocolate, and Scicli. Beware of Noto's steep climbs and Google Maps' imaginative directions on country roads: trust the main paved arteries.
Ortigia, the most beautiful place of the trip. Caravaggio a mandatory stop. In Noto Leo scratches the bumper (goodbye cheap rental). Modica blue and chocolatey, Scicli at sunset brushing a deadly gravel road. Top fish dinner at Baqqalà.
Agrigento · Scala dei Turchi · Marsala
The Valley of the Temples in Agrigento is unmissable: don't miss the Telamons and the Temple of Concordia. A few minutes away is the Scala dei Turchi, a white cliff on the sea (still under protection, inquire about permitted access). Night in Marsala, lively and full of small bars.
Valley of the Temples fascinating, including the Girgentana goats. Scala dei Turchi breathtaking but completely unappreciated. Two hours among fields and illegal dumps with an unsettling podcast in the background, then Marsala, 'the Sicilian Lecce', vibrant on Saturday night.
Trapani · Erice · Palermo
Breakfast among the locals at Oasi Bar, then Trapani and Erice (magical but often shrouded in fog and semi-deserted in winter). In the evening Palermo: avoid driving in the labyrinth of Ballarò and aim for an external car park. Must-see is the Convento di Santa Caterina with its terraces and the nuns' pastry shop.
Erice in the fog, Leo's stomach rumbling. In Palermo, Google Maps sends us straight to Ballarò. Convento di Santa Caterina highly recommended, the 'trionfo di gola' delicious. The new port looks like Dubai. Authentic dinner at Sciapò.
Palermo
Last day among the historic markets of Vucciria and Ballarò, the Royal Palace of the Normans, and the evocative (and unsettling) Catacombs of the Capuchins. Taste Palermo street food — pani ca' meusa for the brave, iris for the gourmands — before returning to Catania.
Vucciria in winter is pretty much closed, Ballarò is much livelier. Capuchin Catacombs spooky: Rosalia Lombardo will disturb Leo's dreams. Pani ca' meusa doesn't convince us, but iris does. We only found out today that the highway is free.
Bombastic Sicily
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